Drill the center hole in the broken fastener and tap in the extractor. An alternative to this tool that doesn’t expand the fastener (and works better in gripping out fasteners made from brass and aluminum) is a spiral-shank extractor. A few deft shots with the hammer will make it seat. Note that the taper of the extractor can expand the screw or bolt, so don’t pound the extractor into the hole. To use it, you make a carefully drilled hole in the center of the snapped-off screw or what’s left of the bolt head, tap in the extractor using a ball-,peen hammer and then twist the extractor out counter clockwise using an adjustable wrench. This may work perfectly, but in other cases, the extractor will simply ream the fastener out, leaving you worse off than you were before.Īn alternative, old-school method is to use a straight-flute extractor. Now, here’s what the manufacturers of these products don’t tell you: They rely on the bite of their peculiar thread. Chucked into a drill, set in reverse, it will back the fastener out of its hole. The Spin-It-Out screw extractor has serrated tips that dig into what remains of the stripped-out fastener head. Then use the extractor end of the bit, with the drill in reverse, to back the fastener out of the hole. Drill into the damaged fastener, stop the drill, remove the bit, and flip it end for end. Some double-end bits such as the SpeedOut Pro have a specially designed drill on one end and an extractor on the other. You chuck this accessory in a cordless drill, press it firmly into the damaged opening, and run the drill slowly in reverse to back the screw out of the hole. Specialty drill bits like the Spin-It-Out are made to deal with screws in which the drive slot has been stripped out or gouged open. If you can’t grab the outside of the screw with pliers, you’ll need this more involved solution.įor small screws and bolts, the solution is pretty easy. How to Remove Stripped Screws With Embedded Heads
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